Astypalea Through the Eyes of a Local

Antonis Selekos, a man with roots in Astypalea, shares his perspective on the island — his own Astropalia — in a heartfelt piece for Lifo.

“The Castle of Astypalea… has a key, and it locks.”

Hey auntie! It’s me, Antonis — the grandson of “Chontremporas”, Nina’s son! (I say it like it’s the first time every time, but I love it so much!). Raised in Exarchia but with deep roots in Astypalea. Professionally, I’m a pastry chef — or just “pastry chef” in the fancy modern way. Can’t be called old-fashioned now, can we?

Every year, on the ferry to Astropalia, I remember myself softly singing the title of what you might be reading now — lyrics from a traditional island song that’s followed me countless times through summer festivals, like the most beautiful girl by my side. Come along and see those nights I’m about to describe to you…

Inside the island’s castle. With the full moon lighting us up, glasses clinking through the crowd, our feet dancing, eyes meeting. And who knows? Maybe we’ll meet again.

Every moment becomes a memory — locked away by the castle with the key.

But it’s already 16:40 and the ferry is about to dock at Agios Andreas, the port. I need to hurry. Water for Jolie, backpack on — ready for arrival!

Let that door open already, so I can catch a whiff of your salty breeze, soak in a bit of your aura! Let me see my friends again, taste a few fruits from your land! Melancholy—over. Now we begin!

— Yianni, I’m here!
— Come on, hurry up—if you’re late, I’m gone! Give me Jolie and let’s go find the gang, they’re at Moungos’ café!

Almost every time, the same exact conversation.

Disembarkation, then—and the route is the same as always, year after year. The most beautiful journey through time… A drive that empties your mind. Lost in an endless blue, on nature’s very own canvas.

Forgive me, I got carried away again. Maybe everyone, in their own way, sees their homeland as a kind of redemption. Just like she did, if I remember right. We keep going, and suddenly, Chora appears before you.

Believe me, no description could ever match what you’ll see in that moment. A Venetian castle crowning the hill, and at its feet, a cluster of whitewashed houses—like you took a wrong turn and ended up in the Cyclades. You might also spot the freshly painted windmills—perhaps ready to welcome you. And I say perhaps, because they might not be. In Greece, the state has a bit of a complex with beauty, and every now and then, it throws a little tantrum!

Start your day as if it were the very first day of summer!

Wait—let me help you plan it out a bit, as much as I can from here. I just can’t bear to let you get lost.

If I were you, I’d begin my morning with a traditional Greek coffee at “Mouggos’ kafeneio”. Hot, served in a little wine glass—just the way “Hontremporas” liked it. I’d start soaking in the island’s aura. I’d feel just like the grandpa sitting across from me, silently wondering how he can get a word out of me, so he can feel he’s “earned” his day again. After all, for many locals of this remote island, a conversation is often their form of payment. They look forward to their summer visitors, waiting eagerly to share the season together. Opening up their neighborhoods, their hearts, to welcome us in.

Then I’d make a stop at the bakery. I’d grab a lampropita (a traditional cheese pie) for the road—with real cheese, not like that stuff in the concrete jungle.
Between us? Grab a little something extra. We’ve got quite the journey ahead today!

Let’s go, then—time to see a few of the island’s beaches!

Start with Vatses, which are just perfect. There’s no phone signal out there, so you’re already off to a great start. No data, no messages, no Instagram! A friend of mine once said, “To find yourself, you have to spend some time alone” (Mc Yinka). Give it a shot—it’s got its own charm.

Towel laid under the tamarisk trees, and a cold beer in hand. Preferably Greek—maybe we’ll save the economy while we’re at it.

Cicadas for background music and long, lazy sunbathing.

Next stop: Kaminakia for another swim, and then straight to Kostantios’ taverna right on the beach—for slow-roasted goat in a wood oven. Local meat, fresh tomatoes, and a pan of golden fries. Basically, a gourmet lunch for you who’ve been drooling over MasterChef plates… just no parsnips this time!

Then it’s back, just in time for the sunset when the sun plays with the colors of the sky.
Take it slow and enjoy it from among the windmills, in the square of Chora. Sure, there are even better spots—but how could I show them all to you from here? Shoot me a message, and I’ll reveal them all!

A good glass of wine and a bit of aimless wandering.

Throw on your linen shirt—let’s go strolling! I’d suggest bringing a light jacket too, since not all islands with a reputation for wind live up to it like Astypalea does. Honestly, it could easily be called the island of the winds. Luckily, no one’s caught on yet and tried to plant wind turbines here too!

A nighttime walk through the alleys of Chora—slow and aimless. Like we said, some islands get the fame, others have the magic. You’ll be on the lookout for Kastro Bar. Everything here somehow circles back to that castle in the end. When you get there, make your way up to the higher tables to enjoy the view toward the island’s second settlement, Maltezana. And if you’re truly a night owl—or just someone who knows how to appreciate beauty—stay until sunrise. You’ll see what I mean about the sea at that hour. Some places are famous for their sunsets… others for their dawns.

So here’s to a beautiful sunrise.

*** 

Here’s where I’ll leave you to explore the butterfly of the Aegean on your own.
While I finish reading my book—because I still have so much more to share with you.
At some point, I’ve got to get you cooking something from our island too, so you don’t forget us!Broadcasting from the borders between the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, I leave you with just one suggestion: Love this place, exactly as it is.

Let nature speak to you—she knows best.

P.S.
The castle of Astypalea has a key, it locks,
It has beautiful girls, but does not reveal them.

Photo credits: Antonis Nikolakis Photography